Bikepacking isn’t the slightest bit a novel idea. Late nineteenth century black and white photographs of cyclists with bedrolls and framebags heading out into the countryside or on months long trips over international borders show that the bicycle has always been for freedom and exploration. If anything is new in the current enthusiasm for bikepacking, it’s firstly that specific and optimized gear is now widely available for it, and secondly and more importantly, there is a critical mass of the aesthetic sensibility to make it within the imaginative grasp of all of us.
We’ll visit some sites from tour and guidebooks, mostly we’ll be breath slowing across landscapes to find less insistent beauty, the beauty in the ordinary things in their ordinary state.
I don’t care about the equipment, I just want it to be perfect.
For a month long bikepacking trip in Sweden and Norway in June/July I rode my main expedition wheel, a modified 2010 Surly Pugsley.
Antigua, Guatemala—Brian, who hails from Iowa and has lived here for a few years, runs an impressive little shop right near the parque central.
A quick note to a friend going on her first cycle tour describing the theory behind minimal-ish kit: Obviously, your shorts, short sleeve top, socks, (x2) +shoes riding combo are your base outfits during the […]
Roll off the trail into a small town to resupply for, suppose, two full days and a half until the next one. So, three lunches, three breakfasts, two dinners, and trail snacks. Shopping List Instant […]
Two in two suitcases, one by design the other not but can, a welcome evolutionary spandrel. Mountain bikes for a revised plan, one that involves airlines, buses for some big spans between altitudes, deserts, jungles, coffee plantations hillsides. Tracks, trails, […]
This is the gear that I had at the end of traveling in South America.
Villa O’Higgins, a proudly end of the road town, angled cooked dirt streets desert thorny plants growing along paths linking the tiendas, the horsetack shop, a panaderia, a smart looking new community activity center. Curious, on surface empty but folks hiding from heat or the appearance of bustle, the border beyond and across no mans lakes and glaciated cragtops witness to the imaginary boundary between Chile and Argentina. I book passage on the two ferries for the next day, return to the hostal with cyclistas and mountaineers loitering against the boat schedule, each eyeing the other friendly cautiously suspiciously across the sport divide, climbers not nearly as cool as they hope and cyclists far dorkier than they realize. Swiss friends roll up in the afternoon, we drink tea and beer alternately, talk about nexts or who we are returning to and when.
So what do I think of using a bikepacking setup for regular on-road touring?
The Salar hogs the glamour, but the area nearer La Paz would immensely reward spirited exploration. With a clever itinerary, one could travel in a truly fast and light backpacking style on a dual suspension rig. On an imaginary future trip I imagine riding down Yunga Cruz to the jungle and then up The Death Road.
Or bring an unstoppable Fat Bike for a more deliberate, deep backcountry effort.
Here are some maps for riding and walking in the Yungas and mountains north and northeast of La Paz, including the Death Road. All of them are available in La Paz; I post them here for pre-trip planning.
In a splendid fiction one could easily pedal to the edge of the ruins at Machu Picchu and circle and photograph its majesty by bike, just as one might at Angkor Wat or Palmyra. In reality the tourist town that supports MP — Aguas Calientes — is so remote and small, and the concentration of visitors to it is so great that access is highly controlled. Indeed, there are no roads to AC. Many cycletourists simply ride to Cusco and leave their bicycles there, getting to MP the usual way by bus then train. I did not want to go to Cusco and backtrack, nor did I find the usual way aesthetically appealing at all. I contemplated skipping it altogether.
But there is an alternative that includes high mountain pass bikepacking, weather, minor drama, and a bit of cycletouring nostalgic history in that a fair bit of it is on train tracks. Thus, it echoes in a tiny way the style that the likes of Sachtleben & Allen or Frank Lenz traveled in when a railway link was the only path between cities.
The plan assumes travel from the west, i.e., headed south through South America. It is possible to do what is described here backwards, but it appears to me that starting from Cusco likely offers different options. The route is substantially based on a trek that has been adapted into a multisport multimodal trip involving hiking, biking, luxury eco lodges, donkey porters, vans and trains. Obviously, Pfft! on all that. This is how to do it all by big pedaling. A very capable off-road bike and minimal weight are essential.