[From November 2007.]
Yarle village, lucked into overnighting in the second floor room of yak dung storage garage, warmth! Last night’s dinner in a cramped smoky everything shop with three young women and man playing a game with domino-type pieces and dice. Bets consisted of shots of beer (we didn’t play but consumed these bets anyway), and the scene makes it difficult to accept the alleged inevitability of women being displaced in traditional cultures, these are effusive, publicly having fun, laughing smoking. Am I hallucinating?, one flirts like mad with me, two go out front to pee in the street — too cold to wander far — come back hitching their pants up and grinning at us.