Unquestionable paradisiacal quality about this place, though the days smear together: don’t know how many afternoons of seriously buzzed biking in the hot sun and clear blue skies I’ve done after eating a lunch of wine and cheeses and divine local delicacies. It is gorgeous here, but essentially the opposite of expedition biking. I arrive in some village at the end of the day having invariably ridden with some Italian roadies without helmets and in white eurodouchekit (though they’re impossibly wonderfully polite and friendly), get cleaned up, and then eat some multiple course dinner, 80 euros poorer. Next day, see some stunning architecture, visit an exquisite Church interior, pedal off, repeat. Last night and this I’m staying in a castle.